JUST BIKES LAMS Guide 2013 - First Time Bike Buying Tips
1. YOUR RIDING
What sort of riding are you likely to be doing? Gavin Schneider of Oliver's Motorcycles says buying on looks alone is a mistake. While that low-slung chopper or slick sports bike may look awesome, will it be practical?
Short inner-city hops may point to a scooter being your best option, while longer daily commutes and weekend rides may make a larger capacity sports a more practical choice. If bush-bashing is on the agenda, an enduro or trail bike could be your best option.
Don't forget that it's YOUR riding. As Gavin pointed out, your mates aren't you, so what they've bought may not be the best for you and your riding.
2. SET A BUDGET
One school of thought is that you should buy a cheap first bike, as you're likely to sell it as soon as your learner period passes. This has some merit, but you can potentially be buying a lot of problems, too. By buying the best bike you can afford (whether it's new or second hand), you're likely to save yourself further expense down the track.
Also, factor in the cost of riding gear (ALWAYS buy the best you can afford) and consumables like tyres, brake pads, etc. Research is the key here.
3. DO YOUR RESEARCH
Check out what's in the market. Once you've found a bike that looks suitable and is in your price range, read up on that particular make & model. Look for advertised examples in JUST BIKES and other sources, and check out online forums as well. This will not only give an idea of what's available and the prices they're going for, but also owner feedback. The bike that looks awesome in the ad can be the subject of scathing reviews, and vice versa.
Also, be prepared to be flexible. What's the next-best bike? By having a few favourites in mind, you'll have more options when you start shopping.
4. CHECKING OUT THE BIKE
When you go to the bike dealership, or call on that private seller, here are a few things to consider. The points below are mostly relevant for second hand motorcycles, but can be applied to new bikes, too.
APPEARANCE
Give the bike a good look over, checking the following areas.
FAIRING SCREEN AND PLASTICS
Mismatched or broken fairing panels, dented tanks, etc. are potential cause for concern as they can point to accident damage, excessive use or improper care and maintenance.
FACTORY PAINT?
Non-standard colours are potential alarm bells, too. By doing your research, you should know what factory colours were available. A repaint in non-standard colours may be hiding problems underneath.
RUST
Excessive rust, especially on the frame, is a problem. Oxidised alloy parts also can indicate age and improper maintenance.
NON-FACTORY PARTS
While not a problem themselves, a lot of aftermarket parts can point to a bike that's covered a lot of miles or been raced.
TYRES
Tyres with signs of excessive wear (minimal tread) or age (cracks in the sidewalls and a 'hard' feel) are bargaining tools for discounting the asking price.
CHAIN AND SPROCKETS
Feel for the slack in the chain (this varies from model to model, but generally shouldn't be more than a couple of centimetres) or look for the axle position markers on the swingarm to see if the chain is near the end of its life. Sprockets with excessively 'pointy' instead of rounded teeth are well worn, and need replacing.
BRAKES
You should be able to see a couple of millimetres of pad material left on disc brakes. Grooves and marks in the discs themselves are warning signs of infrequent pad replacement, overuse and/or damage. Drum brakes are harder to inspect, but usually have wear indicators, too.
FLUIDS
Check the oil level and coolant level for liquid-cooled machines. Overly black (or worse, milky gray) oil and muddy/discoloured water or coolant can point to serious engine problems. Dirty concrete/gravel where the bike is stored can point to an engine that's been leaking for some time. While common (and not a major concern) with older bikes, leaks are a warning sign on newer machines.
ELECTRICS
Check the operation of the lights, indicators and horn, and give the battery itself a look over. Corrosion or verdigris buildup around the terminals is a bad sign, as is wear or fraying on the leads.
All the above are important checkpoints, but Gavin from Oliver's says that tyres, brakes and chain/sprockets are the three most important elements.
SIT ON IT!
Does the bike 'fit' you? Put the centre stand down (if the bike has one) and sit on the bike, in both an upright (ie. standing) and 'riding' position. Hold the latter pose for a while and feel how comfortable it is. Are the handlebars or pegs a long reach? Are you cramped up, or is the riding position tough on your neck or back? Also, can you reach the ground when straddling the bike?
START UP
Feel if the engine's cold before starting it up. If the seller says or shows there's a 'trick' to starting the bike, be wary. Same goes for the bike being warm (from running) before you arrive to check it over.
Once warm, the bike should start and rev easily. If throttle doesn't roll back easily, it could point to engine wear.
While running, listen for unusual rattles or noises, and look for excessive smoke from the exhaust.
CLUTCH ACTION
Older motorcycles can have a 'heavy' clutch lever that's hard to pull in, but newer bikes should have an easy action. If you're able to take a test ride, run it through all the gears and feel how easily it engages each. Even a first gear start on the driveway or dealership forecourt can identify a potentially suspect clutch.
TEST RIDE
If you can take the bike for a test ride, do it. Private sellers are understandably nervous about handing over the keys in case they never see the bike again, so some form of security on your part (like leaving car keys, licence with them) can ease their concerns.
When test riding, check engine and clutch operation, as well as steering. Worn steering head bearings can make the steering feel sloppy, while a damaged frame can manifest itself in the bike being difficult to turn in one particular direction. Steering should be smooth from lock to lock at different speeds.
Also check brake operation and suspension. Braking should be smooth without shuddering (indicating a warped disc), while suspension compression and rebound action should be strong, not overly loose.
CALL ON A MATE
A friend or family member with riding experience can be a valuable asset to have with you, not only when checking out a potential purchase, but also for bouncing ideas and opinions off earlier in the process. An experienced set of eyes can also spot problems with your potential purchase that you could miss or didn't consider.
ID AND LEGALITY
On older bikes, matching engine and frame numbers are pointers to originality, but not necessarily condition. Non-matching engine/frame on a newer bike is cause for concern.
When buying privately, it's worth checking the bike's VIN or registration details with your state authority to identify if it may be stolen.
If the bike hasn't been registered for several years, quiz the seller as to why. A long fallow period may point to a bike with mechanical problems that were too costly to fix.
WARRANTY & SERVICE HISTORY
If you're not mechanically adept, these are two important considerations in your buying decision. A dealership warranty can potentially save you a lot of cost down the track, while a listed service history not only shows how well the bike's been looked after in the past, but also what's going to need replacement in the future.
DON'T RUSH
The first bike you purchase is unlikely to be your only bike, but it's one you're potentially obliged to ride for some time as a learner, so you need to be comfortable with it.
Dealerships are generally happy for you to look over different models in stock, and can offer advice.
Most dealerships will also have finance plans, as well as insurance options and warranty protection.
There are advantages to buying privately, such as a lower price, and – potentially – greater haggling power.
Our thanks to Gavin Schneider from Oliver's Motorcycles, for assistance with this article.
Oliver's Motorcycles. 1098 Ipswich Rd, Moorooka, QLD
Ph: (07) 3193 4444
www.oliversmotorcycles.com.au
